Trends and Insights

Now that we’re deep into spring, it’s time to “zhuzh” up your horse. Why not make it an enriching mindfulness experience for you both? Enter mindful grooming. It’s not uncommon for horse owners to become complacent about grooming amidst the many other tasks involved with having horses, especially when combined with finding the time to ride. But a dedicated, mindful equine grooming session can be quite relaxing and yet another way to share space.I’m an advocate of letting horses be horses, but to be honest, sometimes mine look downright feral as I slack on their grooming. I often find myself doing a quick “cowboy groom,” focusing on just the areas that need direct attention, paying little attention to anything else. The reality as horse owners is sometimes that’s all we have time for. Often, equestrians can become task-oriented or fixated on the ride, skimming over the true joy of simply being around horses. Mindful grooming is a nice way to connect beyond riding. Your horse will thank you, because after all, who doesn’t love a good spa day and quality time with a friend? As part of my Body, Mind, Equine retreats , I include a mindful equine grooming segment. This session often includes some of the sweetest and most memorable aspects of the program. When I take the time to do this with my horses, I’m reminded of how rich the experience is. What are the Benefits of Mindful Grooming for You and Your Horse? ◆ Slowing down and an opportunity to practice present-moment awareness. ◆ Spending quality, quiet time with your horse. ◆ Relaxing and soothing both horse and human, lowering stress levels. ◆ Getting hands on your horse to inspect anything that might be missed at a glance, such as tenderness, weight loss/gain, and hoof issues . ◆ An opportunity to observe energy and to be aware of what energy we are bringing to our horsemanship, such as calm, rushed, scattered or centered. ◆ An occasion to bond, build trust and connect. Benefits for Senior Horses and Non-Riders Since my horses are now seniors , I find we spend more time doing tranquil, simple activities, such as unhurried grooming sessions, compared to how we spent time during our many years of long, challenging trail rides. As we move through the various seasons of our lives, we find new pathways to partnership. Maybe you no longer have interest in riding, or you or your horse has an injury, preventing saddle time. Or perhaps your friends are going riding, but you’re having an off day and you’re just not feeling it. In either case, there’s nothing wrong with staying behind and spending time with your horse in another way. Sometimes, it’s nice to just be with your horse. How to Practice Mindful Grooming Mindful grooming can be approached in several ways, depending on personal preference and your setup. ◆ Make the session feel special, much like you would when setting up for any special occasion. Your horse will sense the difference. Maybe it’s playing relaxing music in your barn, or thoughtfully setting out your grooming tools. I like to start and end my session by giving my horse a peppermint. ◆ Sessions can be done in complete silence, which can be a nice break and a counterbalance from all the noise in our lives. Horses live in a nonverbal world; sometimes it’s nice to join them there! ◆ Soft music can also be pleasant. Choose something soothing. I like to play Native American flute music; I find the sounds peaceful and ethereal. ◆ Before greeting your horse, take a few moments to become centered: be still, close your eyes, and breathe deeply, collecting and gathering yourself. Your horse will detect the difference when your energy is centered versus fragmented. ◆ Before grooming, take a moment to breathe with your horse. Stand next to him with grounded feet and place a hand on his chest, side, or near the nostrils, and breathe deeply—see if you can sync up your breathing. Not only does this calm and connect horse and human, but helps us become keenly aware that the same life-force energy flowing through us also flows through our horse (and all living things), interconnecting us on a deeper level. ◆ Begin your grooming regimen in whatever way you like, while staying attentive to what you’re doing. When your mind wanders from your task, notice that you’ve come out of the moment and bring your attention back. Use two tools to stay harnessed in the present: breath and bodily sensations. When you catch yourself mentally drifting, come back to those two things—they’re always there. Often, we operate on auto pilot, but learning to stay in the present moment is a gift—that’s why it’s called the present. ◆ Pay attention to your horse’s response/body language . Is he showing signs of relaxing and enjoying the experience? Detect if there are specific areas where your horse likes or dislikes grooming, and adjust accordingly. ◆ See how much you can notice. When grooming, pay attention to the subtleties, smells, sounds, sensations and breath. Use this time as a meditative experience—a waking meditation. ◆ If you groom with others in a shared barn or with a riding group, perhaps suggest this as a group activity. Group energy can sometimes enhance the experience for all. ◆ The session can be as long or short as you’d like. It’s not about the quantity of time, but rather the quality of presence. ◆ In closing, thank and appreciate your horse for being part of your life and for being a “creature teacher.” We can learn so much from them by simply being in their company. I hope you’ll give mindful grooming a try and continue to seek new ways to connect with your horse and the world around you in a deeper way.  Happy grooming! Your horse thanks you. Source: https://www.horseillustrated.com/mindful-grooming

How much does horse ownership cost? That depends on several factors, from where you live to how you plan to keep your horse. Calculating costs can be complicated. Here’s how to budget and learn about the cost of owning a horse. Horse board or housing costs are typically the biggest expense associated with horse ownership. Hay and feed bills are also among the highest costs and can fluctuate based on weather and other factors. Shortly after bringing her horse home to her Florida farm from a nearby boarding barn, Helen Yakin-Palmer looked up from her desk to find her mare, Cera, peering at her through the office window.“It was a wonderful surprise,” Yakin-Palmer recalls. “It’s the upside of keeping a horse at home.” In fact, it’s what some horse owners—especially prospective ones—dream about. But keeping a horse at home is not as simple as it seems. And keeping one anywhere—whether a farm or a boarding barn—is not an inexpensive proposition. Either way, providing for its needs makes all the difference between a horse that is thriving and one in danger of becoming a welfare statistic, whether he is a performance horse , a trail horse or a companion equine. Your Costs May Vary Annual horsekeeping expenses vary widely. Here’s a rough look at the major expenses and what they’ll cost per year on the low end and high end for the cost of owning a horse. (Please see the attached link.) Overall Horse Ownership Cost “The No. 1 reason why horses go into rescue or are sold is because people realize that they can’t afford them,” says Nicole Maubert-Walukewicz, founder of the Palmetto Equine Awareness and Rescue League (PEARL) in Anderson, S.C. As most horse owners know, the cost of keeping the horse is usually greater than the cost of purchasing it. “The cost of the horse is going to be the least expenditure an owner is going to make,” says Amy McLean, Ph.D., equine lecturer (PSOE) in the Department of Animal Sciences at the University of California. “You are going to spend more taking care of it.” So how much can owners expect to spend on horsekeeping? Calculating costs can be complicated. While some expenses, such as basic veterinary and farrier fees, are relatively consistent over time, others vary from state to state, region to region and year to year, such as feed and hay. Horse Ownership Cost: Horse Feed According to the Unwanted Horse Coalition, (UHC) a horse’s dietary requirements depend on its breed, activity level and age. For example, horses with extensive training and show schedules generally require more feed and forage than horses that are only occasionally under saddle or are not ridden at all. Likewise, older horses may need to eat more just to maintain good body condition. Generally, a healthy horse should consume at least 1.5 percent of his body weight in forage daily. For some owners, that means making sure the horse has lots of grazing time on pasture, supplemented by high-quality hay . But hay costs vary depending on your location, the volume of the local hay crop, and how far the hay must be transported. As a result, the cost of hay is higher in California than it is in the Midwest, for example. “Hay is a large and regionally-produced crop that is shipped long distances, so problems in some areas won’t necessarily impact price,” says Daniel H. Putnam, Ph.D., extension agronomist and forage specialist in the Department of Plant Sciences at UC Davis. In Florida, Yakin-Palmer pays $13.50 to $15.50 per bale for hay. Meanwhile, trainer Clarissa Cupolo recalls buying hay annually by the ton. “In New Jersey, we had to buy hay by the ton,” says Cupolo. “We would pay $2,000 for hay to feed six horses for a whole year.” Horses’ diets can also include feed, either commercially manufactured or locally milled. Those costs can vary too, depending on where the feed is milled and where ingredients are grown. A 50-pound bag of commercially formulated equine feed runs anywhere from $15 to $35; the average stabled horse eats 5 to 15 pounds per day. Don’t forget to add onto this the cost of any supplements you feed, which can vary widely. Horse Ownership Cost: Hoof Care and Veterinary Expenses Aside from meeting their horses’ dietary needs, owners must also provide routine veterinary and other professional care to keep their animals healthy. In general, those costs do not fluctuate much from month to month or year to year. Nevertheless, having a plan to finance these costs is critical. For example, veterinarians generally charge $25 to $75 for a basic farm call, which covers the cost of the veterinarian traveling to the horse’s location. Frequently the owners of horses kept at boarding barns split farm call costs when all the horses residing at the barn receive vaccinations at the same time. Once the veterinarian has arrived, routine vaccinations , including rabies, tetanus, West Nile, EEE and WEE, range from $75 to $150, according to Jennifer Williams, Ph.D., executive director and founder of the Bluebonnet Equine Humane Society and author of How To Start and Run A Rescue. While some vaccinations are administered annually, booster inoculations represent an additional cost, and an additional farm visit. General health care costs should also include $50 to $150 for annual teeth floating . Additional dental work generally adds a cost of $100 or more depending upon what the horse needs. But veterinarians are not the only professionals that help keep a horse healthy. All horses require routine farrier care every four to eight weeks, whether they are shod or not. Cost for trimming a barefoot horse may range between $25 and $40 ($150 to $240 annually), Williams says. Routine farrier care for shod horses ranges between $50 and $150 per visit, or $300 to $1,200 annually, she says. “If your horse is lame or develops problems with his feet, he may need more frequent farrier work or the assistance of a specialist, which will cost much more,” she points out. Horse Ownership Cost: Unexpected Vet Emergencies But even if owners budget for the best routine care, all horses are at risk for injury or illness. When that happens, an emergency farm visit can cost as much as $100 before the veterinarian even begins to treat the animal’s condition. More serious treatment can require transporting the horse to an equine clinic, or even surgery. That’s something Yakin-Palmer learned when Cera required surgery after a severe colic episode. “The bill was $15,000 in veterinary, hospital and aftercare costs,” she says. “That’s why people should have an emergency fund for their horses if they can.” Insurance policies are also available. One type is directly through veterinary equine practices, where owners pay an annual fee that covers routine services, such as vaccinations and farm calls, as well as for reduced “deductibles” for surgeries and other major services. Other policies are available through equine health and liability insurance . Some supplement companies, such as SmartPak and Platinum Performance, offer a program to cover the costs of colic surgery with a qualifying order and routine wellness care from your vet. Costs of Boarding vs. Home Horsekeeping Some novice owners believe that horsekeeping costs will be lower if the animal is kept at home as opposed to being boarded at a local barn. But that’s not always the case, says McLean. Owners who intend to keep their horses at home must factor real estate costs into the horsekeeping equation and balance it against that of boarding. “For example, real estate costs can be $700,000 to $1 million for 2 acres if you want your own horse facility,” California-based McLean points out. “But boarding costs can run between $400 to $700 for full board, depending on the facility. Barns where Olympic-level horses are boarded can run between $1,200 and $1,500 a month.” The cost of basic services, such as stall cleaning, turnout, hay and feeding are typically included with full-care board. At some facilities, blanketing and holding a horse for a farrier or veterinarian is also included, says Clarissa Cupolo, owner of Gemini Performance Horses in Florida. Owners must still pay their own bills for these services, however. Elsewhere, horse handling is passed on to owners at an hourly or per-service rate. Still, boarding a horse may be most cost-effective for some owners. “For example, if you have to travel for work, you may want to board your horses,” says McLean. “Also, you have to factor in the cost of your hours feeding your horses, cleaning their stalls, turning them out, et cetera.” These facts are not lost on Yakin- Palmer, who boarded both her horses before she brought them home. “Keeping your horses at home is certainly limiting,” she says. “You have to have a flexible schedule, and you have to be there. I work at home so my schedule is flexible, but I can’t just take a vacation; my vacation is being with my horses.” Ultimately, each owner must decide how to calculate—and afford—the cost of horse ownership. To do that, Maubert-Walukewicz advises prospective owners to gather opinions from local horse owners before they purchase a horse. “Find out what the costs are [in your area], what kind of work is involved, and what they think of keeping a horse at home versus boarding it,” she says. For her, the choice was simple. “I spend about $4,800 a year on keeping my horses at home,” she says. “I’m the one feeding them, taking care of them, and interacting with them every day, so I know them much better than I would if they were boarded. But even if the cost is equal, that choice is not for everybody. Whatever you choose, you have to do what’s best for the horse.”  Source: https://www.horseillustrated.com/cost-of-horse-ownership

Picture this: a lush, green field with a horse peacefully grazing. This image is almost every horse owner’s ideal vision of their horse at his happiest. But danger can lurk for some horses if you look a little deeper. Certain horses and ponies are prone to grass founder ( laminitis ), particularly in the spring when grasses are high in sugar . Most horse owners would rather prevent laminitis than deal with it after it happens, so the best course of action is to recognize the red flags—times to be more vigilant—and know what to do next. High-Risk Horses Horses most at risk for laminitis are those with equine metabolic syndrome (EMS) and Cushing’s disease (also called pituitary pars intermedia dysfunction, or PPID). Horses and ponies with EMS often have telltale symptoms, including a tendency toward obesity, insulin resistance and recurrent laminitis. Abnormal fat deposits along the crest of the neck, tailhead and above the eyes are typical, even when the horse is at a normal weight. The condition most often occurs in ponies and other breeds that evolved under harsh conditions and tend to be easy keepers. Horses with PPID may have symptoms similar to EMS, such as patchy fat deposits and insulin resistance , but PPID usually begins to appear in older horses (over age 15). They may also start to lose topline muscling and develop a thick haircoat that sheds out later than normal, or eventually not at all. If you suspect your horse has either of these conditions, schedule a vet visit for blood tests that will help confirm a diagnosis. If your horse has a metabolic disease, consider it a huge warning flag that he is at high risk for pasture-associated laminitis. The Carbohydrate Connection to Founder in Horses Laminitis can be caused by grazing on pasture that is too high in non-structural carbohydrates (NSCs) . These include fructan, sugar and starch. Structural carbohydrates are the fibrous parts of the cell wall that give the plant rigidity; these are digested differently from NSCs. You may have heard that fructan is the singular evil element in grass that causes horses to founder. However, more recent research has shown that pasture-induced laminitis cannot be attributed solely to fructan. There is no fructan in warm-season grasses, yet horses can still founder on them. Since the same environmental conditions that create high fructan concentrations also increase sugar and starch levels, it’s best to just limit all NSCs. Conditions that Spell Trouble In order to prevent laminitis in high-risk horses, you’ll need to start thinking about weather and grass-growing conditions. When the sun is shining brightly but other conditions limit the growth of the plant, NSC concentration in pasture plants will increase. Here is a list of the danger signs to look for: Temperature “If it’s below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, the enzymes that help the plant grow don’t function anymore,” says Kathryn Watts, an internationally respected consultant and researcher specializing in pasture grass and horses and ponies prone to laminitis. She is based in Colorado and maintains a website at safergrass.org. “However, photosynthesis [which creates sugar] happens as long as the sun is shining, provided that the plant is not frozen solid.” Concentrations of NSCs can double or even triple if these conditions (sunny and below 40 degrees) continue for several weeks. Since this commonly happens during spring and fall in many parts of the country, these seasons are often associated with grass founder in horses. TIP: A useful tool that you can find at any hardware store is a min-max thermometer. Put it on the back porch and check it every morning. If it’s been below 40 degrees that night, start paying careful attention to any high-risk horses. After a few nights below 40, any horse that’s had laminitis in the past or has the body type that says “founder waiting to happen” should probably be removed from pasture entirely and fed hay that’s tested for low sugar content (see “Testing Sugar Content,” below). Lack of Fertilizer “Another thing that can limit plant growth is lack of fertilizer—usually nitrogen,” says Watts. “The plant might have enough sugar, but if it doesn’t have enough nitrogen to put that sugar to work and grow, the sugar starts piling up. I use the analogy of an assembly line: If the plant does not have all of the elements it needs to grow, the line shuts down and the other raw materials pile up.” Since a lack of nitrogen can limit grass growth, it’s important to have the right fertilization schedule for your region. “Approach your extension agent or fertilizer dealer and tell them you’re looking for a moderate fertility level, not maximum production,” Watts advises. Drought Drought is another form of stress that will result in sugars piling up within the plant. “For example, in Texas, founder season happens when it’s very sunny and very hot,” says Watts. Drought may also cause fructan in cool-season grasses to turn to sugar, increasing chances of metabolically driven laminitis. Mature Grass When managing pastures , it’s important to mow or top the grass before seed heads appear. “Sugars and starch are very concentrated in the developing seed heads,” says Watts. “Many horses selectively graze them off; it’s like horse candy.” Weeds Most pastures are filled with weeds that horses are more than happy to consume. “Some of the weeds in your pasture have the potential to contain more sugar than the grass,” says Watts. “The ones that I have tested personally that are really high in NSCs include dandelion, plantain and thistle.” You can treat pastures with an herbicide to kill broadleaf weeds such as dandelions, which are particularly palatable to horses. Often this is enough to decrease the incidence of founder. A thick, healthy stand of grass is the best defense against invasion of weeds and clover. While proper fertilization can decrease sugar concentration per mouthful of grass, there may now be more sugar per acre. When grass is more plentiful in previously overgrazed pastures , you may need to start limiting intake with a muzzle or decreased time at pasture. It’s important to note that weeds may grow around dry lots where horses and ponies are housed to keep them off pasture. If those weeds are within reach of desperate flapping lips of horses, the risk of founder is still there. You may very well save your horse from foundering just by running a weed-whacker around the dry lot. “Safe” Grazing Regardless of what season the calendar says it is, keep an eye out for dangerous grazing conditions all year long. “The worst places for laminitis are those where the grass stays green all winter long, like in Great Britain and the Pacific Northwest,” says Watts. “Their grass doesn’t ever really die. When the temperature is below 40 degrees, any green grass creates a problem for high-risk horses, regardless of what month it is. “Here in Colorado, by December the grass is completely brown,” she continues. “If the weather has been dry, the grass can still be high in sugars.” Sugars may be leached out eventually by rain and melting snow, except in the case of grasses with a waxy coating, such as fescue . Fescue is commonly found in Kentucky and the Southern states, so keep in mind that it may be holding on to sugar longer if you are planning to put your horse on it in the winter or during a summer drought. “People assume that dead grass has no nutritional value if it’s brown,” adds Watts. “But sugar is not green. The chlorophyll and protein may be gone, but the sugar isn’t necessarily gone. Don’t assume that brown grass is safe.” Testing Sugar Content If you’re unsure about your grass or hay’s sugar content, the best thing to do is get it tested. “Grab a few handfuls of brown grass and send it to Equi-Analytical Laboratories [the equine division of Dairy One Cooperative Inc. ] and have it analyzed,” says Watts. This is only accurate if the grass is completely dead. (If the grass is green, you would have to flash freeze it and send it overnight on dry ice, which is very expensive.) If it’s dead, you can treat it like hay. Average grass hay is around 12 percent non-structural carbohydrates on a dry matter basis but can range up to 30 percent. For high-risk horses, grass or hay should be less than 11 percent. This varies by individual horse and how much exercise he’s getting. As you test more hay and compare how your horse does on each batch, you will learn what he can handle without gaining weight or getting sore feet. There is no “one size fits all” recipe. If your high-risk horse has been pulled off pasture, it’s important to test your hay for sugar content. “Any kind of hay can be high or low in sugar,” says Watts. “It’s not about species; it’s about growing conditions.” Managing the High-Risk Horse If you have a high-risk horse with a cresty neck, one of the best things to keep an eye on is his neck. “When the sugars get high in the grass, you can palpate his neck and feel a difference,” says Watts. “I call it ‘the Neckometer.’ When you put him in the dry lot, within a couple of days you should feel his neck getting softer. If you do something wrong, his neck will get hard very quickly.” If the weather is conducive to making high-sugar grass, horses with more mild risk factors may still be able to stay on pasture with a grazing muzzle on. “But if you put the grazing muzzle on and his neck is still getting bigger, then it’s time to put him in the dry lot and leave him there,” advises Watts. However, she emphasizes that the only way you can really assess your horse’s risk level is to get his insulin levels tested. Early Signs of Laminitis Another tool Watts recommends to carefully monitor high-risk horses is a daily brisk trot on firm footing. Since the metabolic form of laminitis comes on very slowly, it’s possible to look for these subtle signs and get ahead of the problem. “If you have a horse that normally has a nice, big trot and suddenly he just shuffles along stiff-legged or refuses to trot at all, that’s the horse that you bring back to your dry lot,” says Watts. “Feel his feet to see if there’s excess heat or an obvious pulse. These horses will often respond to being withdrawn from pasture very quickly.” Keep the horse off of pasture until weather conditions have changed completely in a way that will lower the concentration of sugar in the grass. For any case of acute laminitis, contact your vet immediately. Since metabolic laminitis is a relatively new area of research, make sure your vet is up to date on the condition and knows how to treat it. “Endocrinology is a veterinary specialty,” says Watts. “The same goes for farriers . The farrier you loved when your horse was healthy may not have the skills to help him once he’s foundered.” Exercise is Key Many of the horses that struggle with grass founder are not exercised at all, or only very lightly. “Except for a few rare cases of very hard-to-control insulin resistance, if you exercise the horse hard enough (to a sweat) three times a week, you can fudge a lot more on the diet,” says Watts. “It’s about balancing the amount of exercise with the amount of NSCs in the diet.” Horses that are prone to insulin resistance should not carry excess weight . Watts recommends horses be kept fit, even with a slight hint of ribs showing. But the horse should also carry good overall muscle tone from an active fitness program—whether it’s riding, driving or longeing.  If you have a high-risk metabolic horse and you want to maximize his grazing time, you’ll need to be prepared to carefully evaluate him and the weather conditions every day. At the first sign of foot soreness or the crest thickening/hardening, move him to a dry lot and feed him low-sugar hay, or soak his hay for a couple of hours in plenty of fresh water to remove excess sugars. When your horse and the grass conditions improve, he can go back out again. However, it may not be until the season is over. Be prepared for a time-consuming challenge. Source: https://www.horseillustrated.com/horse-health-preventing-grass-founder

Keep your horse’s coat healthy and happy year-round with these 10 horse grooming tips and hacks from two professional grooms. When you list what’s in your grooming box, have you ever mentioned a hair dryer, laundry detergent, or dryer sheets alongside your favorite brushes?Drawing on our personal experiences as grooms for show jumping Olympic medalists Anne Kursinski and Kent Farrington , Lindsey Trockenbrot and I compiled this list of grooming hacks. While they may seem obscure, they will help you promote your horse’s coat health. 1. Hot Toweling Hot toweling is a great way to clean your horse without the wash rack—especially in winter when the dust goes deep and the weather is too cold for a bath . All you need is a bucket of hot water, two towels, and a bottle of your favorite coat conditioner or coconut oil. Soak the first towel completely and wring it out well. Rub the rag over the horse’s body like you would with a curry comb , going gently against their coat to get beneath the hair. Once you’ve gone over your horse once, soak and wring out your second towel. This time, spray your coat conditioner of choice directly on the towel. Now go over the horse again, spraying additional conditioner on the towel as needed. Be mindful that you are not applying coat conditioner to the saddle and girth areas if you’re planning to ride that day. To bring out that extra shine after hot toweling, go over your horse with a hard brush, followed by a soft brush. 2. Hair Dryer When the weather is too cool for a bath , taking a hair dryer to your horse’s woolly winter coat (desensitizing him first, of course) will dry out his sweat marks in no time. Any household hair dryer will do the trick for this hack. Once the hair is dry, just curry and brush it out. There’s no need to wait hours for your horse to dry when you can hair dry him! 3. Waterproof Ointment If your horse has soft hooves, you live in an area where the humidity is high, or your horse gets frequent baths and/or his legs washed, this hack is for you. To help prevent your horse’s hooves from absorbing water while being rinsed or bathed, apply Corona ointment or Vaseline to the walls of his hooves before you bathe him. This seals the hooves so the water will bead right off of them. 4. Dryer Sheets When the air is particularly dry, does your horse’s staticky hair—and tail in particular—drive you crazy? Try taking a dryer sheet and rubbing it all over his mane, tail, and body. This will help lessen the static in no time—and it also helps keep bugs away! 5. Apple Cider Vinegar When the sun and bugs are out in the heat of the summer, rinsing your horse in apple cider vinegar will become one of your favorite tricks in the barn. Apple cider vinegar is one of the most beneficial ways to help cool a horse down and keep the bugs away . Add enough ACV to cover the bottom of a bucket, then fill the bucket with water. Use a sponge or rag to generously douse your horse in the mixture. Don’t worry about rinsing him off—just sweat scrape and you’re done. While your horse may smell a bit like a salad, he will thank you for helping them keep the bugs away and helping him cool off! 6. Laundry Detergent If you’ve tried every product under the sun to rid your horse’s white tail of stains or are trying to brighten white legs, try using detergent. Yes, as in the one you use to wash your laundry! Dilute the laundry detergent just as you would with regular shampoo (just a glug in a full bucket of water), scrub, rinse, and voila, your horse will be blindingly white. 7. Mouthwash Have you seen your horse rubbing his rear on his stall, feeder, or water buckets? Mouthwash might be the solution you are looking for. Dilute Listerine mouthwash 1 part mouthwash to 4 parts water in a spray bottle. Spray liberally and work into the roots of your horse’s mane or tail. You can spray this solution daily or as needed. This hack should not replace washing your horse’s tail, but is a helpful addition to your grooming routine . 8. Socks Putting socks on your horse while riding him in sand arenas, alongside currying and keeping his legs clipped below the fetlock, may help minimize fungus on the back of his pasterns. There are socks specifically made for horses, but a pair of human crew socks will also do the trick. Simply cut the foot of the sock off, leaving the tall part intact, and pull the sock over your horse’s hoof so that it covers their pastern and fetlock. Tip: Try putting a gallon-sized Ziploc bag over your horse’s hoof to make putting the sock on easier. To help keep the sock in place while riding, use a pair of hind boots. Socks are also a great way to keep your horse’s white legs clean overnight at a horse show. 9. Vacuuming Not to be mistaken for a household vacuum, this vacuum is designed for horses . While these units will cost you a pretty penny, you’ll find them to be worth every cent. Vacuums allow you to get your horse looking his best without the hassle of a bath. From cleaning sand, dust, and even feathers, vacuums have a tremendous impact on your horse’s coat health. They are particularly useful for removing sand and dust, which will help keep fungus from developing on your horse in humid climates. For optimal results, curry your horse thoroughly beforehand to loosen the dirt on their coat. Be sure to desensitize your horse before vacuuming. 10. Olive, Coconut, and Baby Oil While nearly everyone has a bottle of olive oil in their pantry, not many equestrians have olive oil stashed in their tack box. One of the biggest benefits of olive oil is that it can help keep your horse’s hooves conditioned. Simply applying it to your horse’s hooves with a brush or rag will help condition the hoof wall and procure a polish-like shine. Next time you’re looking to add shine to your horse’s coat at a show or at home, try combining coconut oil with water in a small bucket or a spray bottle. While being mindful of areas where your tack will sit, spray or use a damp towel to apply the coconut oil to the horse’s coat. After applying the oil, use a soft brush to go over your horse’s coat and enhance the shine. Additionally, baby oil or witch hazel can be used to soothe recently clipped areas on horses, especially around more sensitive areas, such as the muzzle, face and legs. Wipe your horse down with a damp rag and oil, focusing on these sensitive areas.  While these hacks will never replace the benefits of traditional grooming, they are excellent additions to your horse’s grooming routine that will help promote a happy and healthy coat. Source: https://www.horseillustrated.com/10-horse-grooming-hacks

What is the Difference Between a Paint Horse vs. a Pinto? The short answer between the differences of a Paint Horse vs. a pinto is that Paint is a breed based on bloodlines, and pinto is a coat color pattern that can be found in horses of many different breeds. The longer answer is a bit more complicated. Paints and pintos typically have one thing in common: a flashy coat featuring patches of white and a solid color, such as bay, black or chestnut. Beyond that, there are many differences.For one, a Paint Horse is a breed that, according to the American Paint Horse Association (APHA), “has strict bloodline requirements and a distinctive stock-horse body type.” Paint Horses can only have the bloodlines of Quarter Horses , Paint Horses or Thoroughbreds in their pedigrees. In order to qualify for registration with the APHA, their sire and dam must be registered with the APHA, the American Quarter Horse Association or the Jockey Club (the breed registry for Thoroughbreds). What Kind of Horse is a Pinto? On the other hand, “pinto” is a term that refers to the colorful coat pattern and is not the name of a particular breed of horse. Any horse that displays one of several coat patterns is considered a pinto. Breeds that commonly produce pinto horses include the American Saddlebred , Gypsy Horse and Miniature Horse . Breeds such as the Spotted Saddle Horse and Spotted Draft Horse are exclusively pintos. Paint Horses traditionally have pinto coat patterns. However, horses from APHA-registered stock that do not have pinto coloring can still be registered with the APHA as “Solid Paint-Bred” horses, formerly known as “Breeding Stock” Paints. There are two main registries for pinto horses—The Pinto Horse Association of America and the National Pinto Horse Registry—and each separates pintos into categories depending on their breeding and conformation. The Spotted Saddle Horse Breeders and Exhibitors Association and the International Pattern Sporthorse Registry also accept pinto horses. The Pintabian Horse Registry specifically registers pinto horses with primarily Arabian horse breeding. What is a Tobiano and an Overo? Pintos and Paints are described by their coat pattern. The two most common patterns are the tobiano and overo. Horses that display characteristics of both patterns are considered toveros. There are also several other pattern types, but that’s another whole article in itself! Source: https://www.horseillustrated.com/horse-exclusives-paint-vs-pinto

If you’ve owned or been around horses long enough, you’ll no doubt have witnessed the gamut of trailer-loading abilities . From the highly desired self-loader to the horse who simply refuses to get on to everything in between, loading onto a trailer is an essential skill that, when missing, can lead to serious frustration on the part of both horse and human. “Some horses lock up their feet and refuse to go forward, while others will step on and fly backward off of the trailer,” says trainer Brittany Malinoski, whose focus is the working cow and ranch divisions . She blends natural and traditional methods in her training program and has a strong passion for colt starting. She operates her Brittany Lee Performance Horses out of Creeks Edge Farm in Lebanon, Tenn. If you’ve ever had the misfortune of trying to load a difficult horse, you may have wondered just how or why he arrived there. According to Malinoski, horses can find loading onto a trailer challenging for a variety of reasons, including inexperience, an accident involving trailering, poor experiences while hauling as a result of driver error, and even uncomfortable trailering experiences derived from slippery flooring. Regardless of the reason, Malinoski shares some of her tried and true methods for teaching your horse to overcome his aversion and load like a pro. Preparing Your Trailer for Self-Loading Before you begin working through your horse’s trailer loading woes with self-loading as the end goal, make sure that your trailer is safe, comfortable, and inviting by bedding the floor with shavings and placing hay in a bag or net. For the trailer floor, Malinoski prefers trailer mats with shavings and, because it is highly palatable, chooses to offer alfalfa hay. Trailer preparations aside, Malinoski explains that your horse should have good manners and be solid in his ground handling skills so he can go off the feel of what you’re asking before you attempt to tackle the trailer itself. Finally, if possible, you may wish to provide your horse with a mentor or buddy skilled at trailer loading. While Malinoski advises that horses should eventually become adept at loading alone in any situation, having an experienced horse to model his loading skills and then waiting patiently in the trailer may make your horse comfortable enough to be drawn inside to join him while he is still solidifying the skill. Squeeze Game To help horses become comfortable in narrow spaces such as trailers, Malinoski makes use of an activity called the squeeze game. Using an arena fence or wall, set up two cones or barrels slightly larger than one horse width to create a narrow passage, similar to a trailer stall. Before beginning, your horse should be outfitted in a rope halter with a lead rope attached. You’ll also need a whip or stick with a flag or string at one end. Comparable to a longeing exercise, work your horse at the walk on a circle, sending him through the passage on one side of your circle. Be sure to work in both directions. Malinoski says that while this exercise teaches young horses to be more accepting of tight spaces and lays the groundwork for future trailer loading success, it can also work well for older horses that have developed trailer loading problems. Getting Your Horse to Successfully Self-Load Once your horse is doing well with the squeeze game, it’s time to get back to loading. To prepare, you should outfit yourself and your horse just as you did for the squeeze game. Malinoski begins by working the horse behind the trailer with the doors closed. You can do this by spending a few minutes reinforcing your send-off command at the walk on a small circle in both directions. Next, open the trailer doors. Using the same commands, send your horse onto the trailer. Have patience and be prepared to drop back and reinforce his skills before trying again. If the behavior isn’t too deeply confirmed, the session may advance quickly, but in more deeply ingrained instances, it may take a few sessions before your horse is well on his way to being the self-loader you’ve always dreamed of. Getting Professional Help Sometimes even the best-laid plans can go awry, and your trailer re-training may not go the way you expected. While Malinoski says that most amateurs who are solid in their ground handling skills should be able to tackle this issue, she recommends seeking professional help if your horse isn’t making progress, or if he’s regressing from his previous level of expertise.  “In these cases, you should focus on your groundwork away from the trailer and find a professional to help you in the trailering situation,” she advises. Source: https://www.horseillustrated.com/teach-your-horse-to-self-load-in-the-trailer

When it comes to feeding horses, there are a lot of things to consider besides the ingredients. There are 10 golden rules to feeding, and in today’s blog post we will tell you what they are and why they are important! Rule 1. Always have fresh, clean water available If a horse has not drunk, it will not eat. This is always one of the first checkpoints if your horse has gone off its food. Having fresh, clean, and openly accessed water is an absolute necessity. Water troughs should be checked daily for contaminations, obstructions, or leakages. It is also a handy hint to bring water from home when traveling. This can help encourage horses to drink and therefore eat, when out in new settings. Rule 2. Feed Little and Feed Often For their size, horses have a rather small stomach, which was designed for grazing in a “trickle” matter. In domestic settings, where feed may be provided in one large sum for sake of convenience, the 7-15L capacity of the stomach is filled very quickly. As the digestive system is designed to process smaller more frequent feeds, this type of bulk feeding has two negative effects. 1; The digestive system is ‘overwhelmed’, which can cause difficulties in processing larger quantities of bulk feed. 2; eating all at once, may mean, especially for stabled horses, that the stomach goes for hours without this “trickle” feed. This causes the natural stomach acids, which would otherwise be balanced by the presence of saliva, to reach the stomach lining and potentially induce gastric ulceration. Therefore, the best way to promote a healthy digestive system is to emulate the “trickle” feeding style by providing the daily ration over smaller, more frequent feeds. Rule 3. Feed According to workload Weight and workload are the largest determinants of a horses recommended daily nutritional needs. As workload increases or decreases a horses energy needs, first and foremost, change to reflect their activity. Not feeding to this change in energy, especially in performance or racehorses, can hamper their stamina and action in training and competition, which can be detrimental to their success. Feeding to workload also requires meeting other key nutritional areas, including Crude Protein, Salts, Vitamins and Minerals. A diet evaluation is the best way to check if these needs are being met. Rule 4. Make changes gradually over several weeks Horses have sensitive stomachs and rapid changes in diet ingredients, can cause digestive upsets. Introducing a new feed or pasture gradually, will allow not only promote a smooth transition for the stomach, but will allow you to monitor if any negative changes occur. Rule 5. Feed by weight not volume We often describe our feeds in number of dippers, but we all know that a dipper of chaff is not the same as a dipper of oats! Therefore, weighing out your ingredients when formulating your ration is an absolute necessity. Weight of feed allows for more accurate assessment of nutritional values, something that could not be achieved to the same level of precision, if based on volume. Rule 6. Feed good quality feed stuffs Just like checking the use by date on your own food, your horse’s food should also be examined for quality. This assessment can include Checking for mould Checking for dampness Checking for excessive dust Checking for contaminants If an ingredient isn’t up to standard, don’t feed it. Check that your feed storage has not been compromised and contact your feed supplier if concerned. Rule 7. Feed at the same time each day Horses are a creature of habit that love routine and have a fantastic internal clock to keep track. Feeding to a routine can also be a good way to check on paddocked horses as they will come up to seek a feed they are expecting. Rule 8. Never put a fed on top of an unfinished feed Leaving feed throughout the day or overnight can be common for horses who are picky eaters, or when they may be unsettled. In some cases however, the feed may be left because of a contaminant. All food should be removed before providing the new feed. It is also important to consider feeds such as Speedi-Beet, that have been soaked. In warm weather, these soaked feeds can turn rancid and should be cleaned out after some hours. Rule 9. Feeding before exercise There are lots of different opinions when it comes to feeding and exercise. Due to the horse’s digestive system, we want to avoid it being completely empty, even before exercise, as stomach acid can interact with the stomach lining. Avoid feeding a dense, hard feed, especially grains, before exercise. Studies have shown that it can induce negative implications with heart rate, glycemic and blood lactate levels during and post exercise. Providing some roughage is a great alternative and the added production of saliva for breakdown of this fiber, will help buffer stomach acids throughout exercise. Rule 10. In the paddock, feed horses well apart In group settings, such as paddocks, horses have a natural order of dominance. They know who they could, and who they shouldn’t, challenge when it comes to getting some extra food. Feeding well apart can assist in reducing the tendency to assert dominance. It is also a matter of safety for the feeder, as horses, in asserting their dominance and willingness for food, can increase the risk of unintentional accidents. Feeding in clear open spaces will allow you, the feeder, the best ability to stay clear of these expressions.  Written by Sharne H. Source: https://www.ranvet.com.au/10-rules-of-feeding/

Over recent years the Thoroughbred Racing industry has put in a mammoth effort to ensure the ongoing care and rehoming of its equine athletes post racing. For people in the industry the love, care, and devotion of those looking after these beautiful animals doesn’t end when they stop racing. These magnificent creatures give us so much enjoyment and tireless effort that all anyone wants to see at the end of their career is that they go on to be loved and cared for in their new endeavours. So, what has the racing industry done to ensure the future of there horses and how can you be involved or offer one of them a new home. Each state has its own welfare program but at the end of the day its all about the transition of these racehorses to new lives that is the corner stone of all the programs Racing Victoria – Equine Welfare Department designated to ensuring the future of retired racehorses Equine Welfare Strategic Plan. Its aims are to be recognised as setting the standard in equine welfare. To promote safety and welfare of racehorses at all stages of life. Dedicated Retrainers to help support horses transition to a new life. Show case the versatility of the thoroughbred in many disciplines post racing and help with their care and retraining. Sponsored events and classes specifically for Off The Track Thoroughbreds Provide resources and support for owners of OTT horses Options to purchase a retired racehorse or become a retrainer Racing NSW – Welfare and rehoming division aiming to provide a safety net for thoroughbreds, so they have a quality home when retired and provide support and ongoing services post racing Team Thoroughbreds NSW is a not-for-profit entity set up by Racing NSW to ensure the welfare of the retired racehorse. Eligible horses can be given to Team Thoroughbred NSW to be cared for, retrained and a new home found. It aims to show case the suitability of these horses for many pursuits away from the track. Provide ongoing support, resources, and services for these horses in their new homes. Four dedicated farms for retraining “Bandanora” in Capetree Valley “Barts Farm” (formerly Princes Farm) also used for Retired Champions and the public will be able to visit “The Craig” on the Mid North Coast “Glenferrie Farm” in the Southern Tablelands Sponsored events and classes specifically for Off The Track Thoroughbreds OTT NSW Inc OTT NSW/ATC Racing Qld – Queensland Racing Off The Track Program Provide quality transition for Standardbreds and Thoroughbreds to new careers and homes. Provide Retirement pathways and awareness of adaptability of retired racehorses Acknowledged retrainer program Event and class sponsorship for OTT’s Provide on going support, education and resources Racing SA – Program specifically for the thoroughbred called Thorough Care SA. Aim to support welfare and promotion of thoroughbred horses before, during and after their racing careers Offer assistance packages for rehomed horses Designated Retrainers and homers Event sponsorship specifically for the OTT Other States and Territories have similar programs and information on any of those can be found on their respective websites. Thoroughbreds and Standardbreds can be seen out competing at events all over the country every weekend in all manner of disciplines, these programs help to showcase the versatility, athleticism, and beauty of these particular breeds. From eventing and dressage to polo and therapy horses, their ability to adapt to a new career is well documented. If you are looking for a new horse and the idea of adoption appeals to you, contact your states welfare program (contact details can be found on their websites) and they will help you decide if one of these retired horses is for you and assist in finding you the right partner going forward. Just keep in mind owning an ex-racehorse is not for everyone and the responsibility to care for these horses is huge but the rewards you will get are endless. Written by Selena. P Source: https://www.ranvet.com.au/retired-racehorse-welfare-programs/

It’s not something we really like to do but there are times when it is necessary to float your mare and her young foal. Whether it’s for breeding, moving farms or heading to the vet, with careful planning the trip can be a safe, successful and enjoyable experience. Regardless of whether you are floating your mare and foal yourself or having a professional do it for you there are some things to make sure of before heading off. It is recommended to not float a foal under 3 weeks of age if it can be helped, unless obviously if it is for medical reasons that cannot be avoided. This helps make sure they are strong enough to handle the journey. Make sure both mare and foal are healthy, check temperatures and vital signs, ensure the mare is well hydrated prior to travel. Choose an appropriate time to travel, if it is in the summer mouths and it’s going to be a hot and humid day it might be best to travel at night when its cooler or early in the morning, so you reach your destination before it’s too hot. If you are floating your mare for breeding (walk-on service) and the cover time for your mare is at lunch or later in the afternoon and it’s going to be a hot day, maybe try and make arrangements to get there early and see if they have an available yard for your mare, it is a lot safer to have to wait a bit longer than float your foal in the hottest part of the day. Set your float up to accommodate your precious cargo well in advance. Open the vents and windows to allow good ventilation. If you have a two horse float remove the partition to allow plenty of room, place a board or something similar securely under the chest bar so the foal can’t gain access to the front of the float (I know it sounds terrible but there are stories of foals unfortunately falling out of the PA door on straight load floats). Angle floats are little easier to set up and again removing a divider to allow room is a great idea. As with the chest bar, if your float doesn’t have barn doors or something similar making sure the rear of the float is secured, is also a priority. Once you are organized about when you are heading off or when your mare and foal is being picked up, there are a few other pointers that will help. It is ok to place float boots on your mare if you really need to but is not advisable to place boots or bandages on your foal. They can come undone and get tangled becoming an unnecessary hazard during travel, plus your foal not being used to them may find them agitating and he/she already has enough new experiences to worry about. Try not to be concerned about the thought of your mare standing or injuring your foal, mum’s have a very good awareness of where their baby is and place themselves as to not injure their foal. The mare can be tied up, long enough that she has room to balance herself and eat her hay if you have placed a net in with her, but short enough that the rope wont’ become entangled around your foal. Leave your foal loose so they can move around a little, this way they can continue their normal behaviour of nursing during the trip and allows them room to rest. If your mare and foal is travelling in a truck where the room can be a little smaller, when loading, place your foal so they are facing backwards to the mare, this way they can still nurse easily whilst travelling. Take regular breaks, try not to travel for longer than approximately 4 hours without stopping to rest your mare and foal. On arrival or when returning home, monitor both the mare and foal closely for any signs of distress or sickness for several days. Check vital signs regularly and if there are any changes call a vet immediately, this can be a stressful experience for your young foal whilst they are still developing their own immune system. Foals have been known to develop cases of travel sickness and need to be treated immediately to ensure a safe and speedy recovery. Foals can deteriorate quickly once becoming sick, so picking up any problems early and speedy treatment is very important. Transporting your mare and foal doesn’t have to be a stressful experience, with proper planning and safety checks it can be very simple and easy. If you are nervous about doing it yourself there are many professional transport companies that would be more than happy to help you on your journey.  Source: https://www.ranvet.com.au/floating-your-mare-and-foal/